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Dublin's a stage for Joyce Bloomsday centenary

Author: Robert Schmuhl (Special to the Tribune)

DUBLIN - The irony is worthy of James Joyce himself. Throughout this spring and summer, the writer who called Dublin the city of failure, of rancour and of unhappiness will be celebrated here with the most ambitious literary festival in Irelands history.p. The centenary of Bloomsday-June 16, 1904, the date when the action occurs in Joyces nearly thousand-page novel Ulyssesprovides the occasion for whats called ReJoyce Dublin 2004. That one book about one day in one city is behind five months of events might strike someone as a wee bit curious. But this is Ireland, a country never known to turn its back on a party, and this is Dublin, a city that worships its writers as nowhere else.p. Principal activities for ReJoycing will take place on Bloomsday itself and on days close to it.p. The brewer Guinness, for instance, is sponsoring a Bloomsday Breakfast to greet that Wednesday morn, with lectures, exhibitions, films, broadcast productions, street festivals, concerts and ample time for pub-crawling to follow.p. The preceding Sunday 10,000 souls will be treated to a free breakfast along OConnell Street in the heart of Dublin. The breakfast menu includes Blooms beloved fried kidneys.p. On the next day, June 14, the National Library of Ireland (located on Kildare Street) opens an extensive exhibit about Ulysses and how it came into being. Two years ago, the library acquired a trove of Joyces notebooks and early drafts of his most famous novel. These items, to be shown for the first time, and copy No. 1 of the first edition of Ulysses, published in Paris in 1922, will be on display for perusal of Joyce aficionados until July 31, 2005.p. Besides come-one, come-all public occasions, some 130 academic papers will be presented to nearly 500 scholars attending the International James Joyce Symposium during the week surrounding Bloomsday. As with Ulysses itself, ReJoyce combines highbrow and lowerbrow concerns.p. Since 1904, when Bloomor his creator Joycecould easily stroll throughout Dublin and its succession of interconnected villages, the city has dramatically grown and sprawled, with travel by foot less customaryand the gridlock from car traffic a fact of recent urban life tourists must realize and factor into planning.p. But in getting around here any day of the year, it increasingly seems impossible to avoid Joyce. Three separate museumsthe James Joyce Centre (35 N. Great Georges St.), the James Joyce Museum and Tower (at Sandycove) and the recently opened James Joyce House (15 Ushers Island)are devoted to his life and work, while the Dublin Writers Museum (18 Parnell Square) helps place him in the context of other Irish authors.p. Fourteen brass pavement plaquescomplete with quotations and page numbersallow visitors to find where significant scenes in Ulysses are supposed to have occurred.p. In addition, a large statue of Joyce, dedicated during Bloomsday activities in 1990, looks out on OConnell Street from its perch on North Earl Street, and a striking bust of the author in St. Stephens Green is strategically positioned to keep a watchful eye on Newman House of University College Dublin, where he studied. A new bridge across the River Liffey sports Joyces name, and at 52 Clanbrassil St. in the old Jewish quarter a city-sanctioned sign recognizes the fictional birthplace of Leopold Bloom with these words: Citizen, Husband, Father, Wanderer, Reincarnation of Ulysses.p. Joyce, who died in Switzerland in 1941 three decades after his last visit to Ireland, took delight in creating complexity. About Ulysses he once quipped: Ive put in so many enigmas and puzzles that it will keep the professors busy for centuries arguing over what I meant, and thats the only way of ensuring immortality.p. The author is a professor at the University of 91勛圖 who has taught at University College Dublin and is currently teaching in London.

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